Organic, and all that jazzNorthstar owners go a little more sophisticated with Third & HollywoodTuesday, June 30, 2009 2:59 AMBy Bill ChronisterTHE COLUMBUS DISPATCHThird & Hollywood owner Kevin Malhame, at the bar of his new restaurant in Grandview Heights, has focused on quality, value and durability in food, ingredients and design. The organically minded restaurant features the throwback vibe of a "classic American bar and grill."Third & Hollywood owner Kevin Malhame, at the bar of his new restaurant in Grandview Heights, has focused on quality, value and durability in food, ingredients and design. The organically minded restaurant features the throwback vibe of a "classic American bar and grill."Third & Hollywood might have the sounds of jazz floating out the front door, but the food that comes out of the Grandview Heights kitchen has the same healthy, hearty, organic vibe as its siblings, the Northstar Cafes.Restaurateur Kevin Malhame and his family have taken the former Gibby's -- and later, E.J.'s Canyon Cafe -- at 1443 W. 3rd Ave. in a direction that's a bit of a departure from the bright and shiny Northstars. Third & Hollywood is filled with dark wood and leather, and the background music is traditional jazz, recorded on vinyl."We tried to make the space feel like the classic American bar and grill, but with a sincere devotion to high-quality food and great ingredients," Malhame said.Malhame and his wife, Katy, lived for five years in the same neighborhood, and they watched the space change from one dining concept to another before it abruptly closed."We thought it was a really charming building in a great neighborhood," Malhame said, and so they and Kevin's brother, Darren Malhame, decided to bring it back to life.Some customers might recognize the fireplace, but even it has been modified in the interior created by Andrew Rosenthal of Gieseke Rosenthal Architecture + Design."Kevin and I share a lot of the same interests in design," Rosenthal said. "We both wanted to create a sense of quality, value and durability in a thoughtful way."Malhame likes to use the word "durable" when describing the furnishings. He demonstrated by tugging at a bar table that was mounted in the floor."We have an option for 30 years on this building -- that's a long-term commitment," he said. The furniture is meant to last.It's in the small entrance area that the esthetic developed in the Northstars is first apparent. The space is dominated by a cabinet created by local craftsman Tarik Yousef, who also made the booth platforms, using wood from this area. Even the flowers are organically grown.Chef Matt LaGrow has created a menu based on humanely and organically grown ingredients, including seafood as recommended by the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch. Eggs come from an Amish cooperative, and dairy products from Ohio Organic Family Farms.In fact, Darren Malhame recently was named president of the board of the Ohio Ecological Food & Farm Association.The entrees harken back to an earlier time, with an old-fashioned chicken dinner ($18), meatloaf and mashed potatoes ($19) and a "righteous" grilled pork chop ($24). There also are entree salads and a number of burgers and sandwiches.The bar offers classic mixed drinks, as well as wine and a selection of craft beers.The restaurant holds 120 customers indoors and an additional 30 outdoors, once tables arrive. Diners are seated from 5:30 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
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